On March 30, 2022, Rolex finally unveiled their 2022 novelties. The GMT-Master II was given a new splash of color (and another big surprise for watch enthusiasts), the Air-King was outfitted with a new case, and with the new platinum Day-Date 40, Rolex managed to make the seemingly impossible, possible. But are these the updates the watch world was truly waiting for? Or has Rolex once again given us more of the same?
A Bold Move: The Rolex GMT-Master II
Rolex is often criticized for playing it safe and not taking enough risks when it comes to new releases. With the introduction of the new Rolex GMT-Master II, however, that criticism no longer holds up. This watch represents a bold move for the brand. The newest variant of the Rolex icon features a green and black ceramic bezel insert and is a left-handed watch. I must admit I’m a big fan of the new bezel colors and the green GMT hand, but having the crown and date display at the 9 o’clock position strikes me as a bit too out there. I am right-handed, after all, and don’t often come across left-handed watches. I personally think Rolex took things a bit too far by moving the date function to 9 o’clock, even if it is the logical choice. Generally speaking, I think it’s great that Rolex now has a timepiece specifically made for left-handers in their catalog, but it remains a mystery as to why this new color combo isn’t available for right-handers. You’d think the industry leader would have unveiled green and black variations with crowns on both sides simultaneously. Nevertheless, one thing is for certain: The new left-handed Rolex GMT-Master II will undoubtedly be a very popular watch that will fetch high market prices straight out of the gate. The unusual placement of the crown and date may well take some getting used to, but these features could push demand even further. After all, I’m suspecting this variant of the beloved pilot’s watch will not be available in large quantities at authorized dealers.
Not bold enough? The Rolex Air-King
After Rolex released their teaser video, the watch world speculated that the watch with the polished bezel and crown guard was the Rolex Air-King. A new case surely meant the pilot’s watch would also be receiving a new dial design, right? After all, the existing Air-King dial was based on the onboard instruments of the Bloodhound project rocket car, which itself has an uncertain future. I was really hoping to see a completely new dial design for the new Rolex Air-King. It would’ve been a massive upgrade for the pilot’s watch, but it seems it wasn’t meant to be. While the new Rolex Air-King is outfitted with a new movement and case design featuring a crown guard, the dial has only received minor changes, remaining virtually untouched. I personally think Rolex has gone too easy here, offering little more than a slight modification. I can understand why they may refrain from dramatic design alterations on icons like the Submariner or Daytona, but the Air-King, in particular, would have been the perfect timepiece to take a little risk with. It could have done the pilot’s watch a world of good.
Rolex Does the Seemingly Impossible: The Rolex Day-Date 40 in Platinum
Can I only find things to complain about, or did Rolex do some things right? Well, I have always found Rolex is brilliant when it comes to the finer details; those little things that aren’t immediately obvious in teaser videos or first glances. The new Yacht-Master 42 looks so much more sophisticated in yellow gold than in white gold, for example, and the new dial options for the Rolex Datejust 36 and 41 are nice additions to the collection. I especially like the two green dials on the Datejusts; I think they are destined to be the new fan favorites. Likewise, the new floral dial on the Rolex Datejust 31 is certainly a highlight of the women’s collection. The new Day-Date 40 in platinum, however, represents true innovation and, in my opinion, is the crème de la crème of Rolex’s 2022 debuts. If there is a single design element that defines the Rolex Day-Date, it’s the fluted bezel. Ironically, up until now, the platinum version of what is probably the most distinguished Rolex out there did without this characteristic feature. Why is that? Well, platinum is notoriously more difficult to work with than either stainless steel or gold, meaning the platinum Rolex Day-Date 40 with its ice-blue dial only ever came with a domed bezel. But Rolex has finally overcome those challenges and given the platinum presidential watch its iconic fluted bezel. For me, this was undoubtedly the highlight of Rolex’s 2022 lineup, and something watch fans have certainly been waiting for.
Is this what the watch world has been waiting for?
So, did Rolex give the watch world what they wanted or just the bare minimum (again)? I think it’s probably a mix of these two extremes. I applaud the new left-handed version of the Rolex GMT-Master II; it was a bold and refreshing move by the brand. The new dials for the Rolex Datejust 36 and 41 are also a welcome change, as is the new floral dial on the women’s Datejust. These are all great innovations that I don’t think a lot of people saw coming, nor necessarily asked for. I am, however, a little disappointed that Rolex decided to only offer the new GMT variant for left-handers, and they didn’t quite go far enough with the new Air-King, in my opinion. That being said, the fact that the ice-blue platinum Day-Date 40 finally has a fluted bezel is likely welcome news for every watch fan. After all, the Rolex Day-Date 40 in platinum is literally the most prestigious variant of the brand’s most prestigious model – the iconic bezel is an absolute must here. That is the truest innovation in Rolex’s 2022 lineup, and most certainly gave Rolex fans something they really wanted.
