It was 2013 – the year before I graduated school and before I knew what escapement springs or the difference between a chronograph and a chronometer is – when Girard-Perregaux presented the Constant Escapement L.M. and won the ‘Aiguille D’Or’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This timepiece caught attraction with the mechanism, a constant force escapement, that could provide a high rate stability regardless of the available energy.
Ten years later, I did not only step up my game in watch vocabulary. Moreover, on September 1 2023, I am sitting in front of the latest evolution of the model described above. The Neo Constant Escapement’s name doesn’t only hint to its unique mechanism, but also remembers Constant Girard who put an effort into further developing the chronometry throughout his life. During this year’s Geneva Watch Days my collegues and I were lucky enough to get a glimpse of the Swiss Maison’s new timepiece and to learn about its background.
Where the story of the Constant Escape began
„The idea was born at a regular train station …“, explains Leopoldo Celi, Head of Communication and Brand Image at Girard-Perregaux, “when a watchmaker flipped a train ticket between his forefinger and thumb back and forth.” The watchmaker observed how the cards position changed from a c shaped curve to an upright position if he only put enough lateral pressure on it. This happened until the card reached a point of instability and snapped onto the other side, again into a c shape. The dynamic bending and the alternating distribution of pressure where implemented into the Constant Escapements escapement spring and its super thin silicium blade.
Silicium is the only material that allows the blade, which at 14 micrometers thick is six times thinner than a human hair, to curve and thus provide the balance with constant energy. The escapement spring, whose blade is in the center, was made from a single piece of silicium. This emphasizes the watches symmetry and in combination with the characteristic bridges contributes to its recognition factor.
Read more: Technical Guide: Constant Force Mechanisms in Watchmaking
Optimized and unconventional: the Neo Constant Escapement
The Neo Constant Escapement builds on the success of the past. “Instead of 280 parts, we reduced the movement components to 266”, says Capucine Abrysch, who is responsible for PR and Media Project Management. A clear message that Girard-Perregaux focuses on optimization rather than complexity.
The Neo Constant Escapements diameter measures 45 mm (unbelievable, its predecessor is another 3 mm larger), and it is feeling quite full but not heavy in my petite hand. The case is made from titanium, which is the reason for the lightness of the timepiece and the elegant look despite all the visible watchmaking. During Geneva Watch Days, we saw many watches made of titanium and I must say, there is something about these watches. As dominant or bulky they appear at the first glance, when you lift them you feel their lightweight nature. It’s like the watch could break at the slightest crash. This initially conflicting aspect and the matte, yet shimmering, soft black of the titanium, give the Neo Constant Escapement a touch of something special.
Read more: Live Updated: Geneva Watch Days 2023
Beneath the prominent sapphire crystal, the unconventional dial and all the usually hidden watch components can be seen. Running with the caliber GP09200, the movement has a linear power reserve of seven days and its progress can be observed on the dial at 9 o’clock. A layer higher, the hour and minute hands make their moves: skeletonized, rhodium-plated and featuring luminescent elements. Finally, it is the central second that rounds off the timepiece. It almost seems as if it is floating above all the details of the watch. While its blue tip refers to the passing of time, at the other end there is a detail reminiscent of half of the bridge known as the Girard-Perregaux logo.
The chronometer-certified watch is on a black rubber strap with a fabric look. It is equipped with a titanium triple folding buckle and, thanks to a micro-adjustment system, makes it possible for wearers to find the perfect fit for each wrist.
The Neo Constant Escapement is a fine example of ingenuity and innovation at Girard-Perregaux. The price is 105,000 € / US $ 99,600.
Technical specification: Neo Constant Escapement, Ref. 93510-21-1930-5CX
Case | |
Material | titanium |
Diameter | 45.00 mm |
Height | 14.80 mm |
Glass | Sapphire anti-reflective ‘box’ |
Case-back | Sapphire crystal |
Dial | ring displaying suspended indexes with luminescent material (blue emission) |
Hands | skeletonized, rhodium-plated, ’dauphine’ type with luminescent material (blue emission) |
Water resistance | 30 meters (3 ATM) |
Movement | |
Reference | GP09200-1153 Hand-wound mechanical movement COSC-certified Chronometer |
Diameter | 39.50 mm (171/2’’’) |
Height | 7.40 mm |
Frequency | 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz) |
Number of components | 266 |
Number of jewels | 29 |
Power reserve | min. 7 days |
Functions | Hours, minutes, central seconds, power reserve indicator |
Strap | |
Material | black rubber strap with fabric effect |
Buckle | titanium triple folding buckle with micro-adjustment system |