05/12/2017
 5 minutes

Watch Pairs: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic & Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black

By Jorg Weppelink
Omega Seamaster and IWC Portugieser Teaser

In this series of articles, we’ll take a look at watch pairs. We’ve selected an elegant dress watch and a sports watch for each pairing: Two watches that complement each other and offer their wearer an appropriate watch for any occasion.

 

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic & Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black

Two watches from two of the most well-known watch brands around today. Two watches that will also set you back a little over €10.000 euros. We have chosen two watches that are part of successful collections that are important in defining the brand. The Planet Ocean Deep Black is part of the famous Seamaster collection and the Chronograph Classic is part of the legendary IWC Portugieser collection. Let’s find out what story behind these watches is.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph Classic

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic Image IWC Schaffhausen
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic, Image: IWC Schaffhausen

The IWC Portugieser was first introduced in the late 1930’s in answer to the request Portuguese businessmen Rodrigues and Teixeira made to IWC. When visiting the International Watch Company the gentlemen asked for the development of a large stainless steel wristwatch powered by a movement that could match the precision of a marine chronometer. In order to realise this challenge IWC had to turn to pocket watches. When first introduced in 1939 the IWC Portugieser was considered huge compared to other watches produced at that time. The standard case diameter in the 1930’s and 1940’s was around 33mm and with 43mm the Portugieser introduced a size that was revolutionary.

Over the years the IWC Portugieser did not prove to be a large commercial success and by the 1980s it looked like the watch was going to disappear in silence. In 1993 the Swiss watchmaker celebrated its 125th anniversary and it was the perfect moment to introduce a new IWC Portugieser. The design of the watch proved to be of all times and since the re-introduction the watch has been a big success for the brand with the IWC Portugieser Chronograph reference 3714 becoming the brand’s most successful watch ever produced.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic is what many consider the bigger brother of this Portugieser Chronograph reference 3714. The watch was first introduced in 2013 and pays homage to the initial design of the watch produced in the 1930s and 1940s. The railway-track-style chapter ring that also gave the original Portugieser its distinctive appearance, combined with the classic arched-edge front glass create this respected nod to the past. But the true power of the overall design lays in the fact that it’s simply timeless and therefore has become a true classic in watch design.

The 42mm watch is powered by the self-winding IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre. It includes a date indicator and a subdial at 6 o’ clock that shows the running seconds. The second subdial at 12 o’ clock displays stopped times in hours and minutes up to 12 hours and are as easy to read as the time of day. You can see the movement in its full glory, as the back of the case is a see-through sapphire-glass back. To finish it of the watch has an alligator leather strap made by famous Italian shoemaker Santoni. It’s a beautiful finish to this beautiful watch.

Now why should you choose this version of the IWC Portugieser? First the design of the watch is a true link to the original watch that was introduced in 1939. And secondly the in-house produced movement sets it apart from its smaller brother. But maybe most importantly you will buy a watch that has proven to be one of the true classic watch designs.

 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black

If you are looking for something more sporty and robust, than the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black could be your way to go. It’s part of the world famous Omega Seamaster series that was first introduced in 1948 as a watch for active individuals who wanted a watch for “town, sea and country”. A statement that is still very true when looking at the Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black.

Over the decades the Seamaster series has seen numerous ranges and models that have become famous. Take for instance the original Seamaster 300 that Jacques Cousteau’s team used in 1963, The Ploprof Seamaster 600 that was used by the famous Comex divers and more recently the Seamaster series has been the watch of choice for secret agent James Bond. Ever since Pierce Brosnan first wore an Omega Seamaster in Golden Eye, the Seamaster has been on the wrist of 007 in every movie after that.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black is part of the Planet Ocean series that was first introduced in 2005 as a series of true divers’ watches that was inspired by the original Omega Seamaster 300. The Planet Ocean Deep Black is the first in the series with a fully ceramic case made from one block and a ceramic dial. Something we have previously seen successfully introduced with the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon and therefore it’s only logical that Omega would introduce a Seamaster with a ceramic case. The watch is available in four colours – blue, red, Sedna gold and all black – but the all black version is the way to go.

Omega Seamaster Deep Black, Image: Bert Buijsrogger
Omega Seamaster Deep Black, Image: Bert Buijsrogge – View offers on Chrono24

The Deep Black is powered by the in-house manufactured caliber 8906. The movement is officially certified by METAS, which means that it can withstand magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss, and is accurate within 0-5 seconds a day on average. Next to that the watch also has a GMT complication so a third hand shows you an extra time zone. The movement is visible through an oriented screw-in caseback so that the engraved wording is always placed in position, something that Omega has named a Naiad lock.

Overall this is an impressive watch. Not only because of its’ 45,5mm size but also because of the use of ceramics, the overall black colour and most importantly the unmistakable Omega Seamaster design that people have come to know and love. It is a new and modern day chapter of a long legacy of Omega Seamaster watches.

 

Are you looking for a true classic?

Both these watches are completely different in appearance. The design of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic is a true homage to the original IWC Portugieser and goes perfect with formal attire. This doesn’t mean you can’t wear it in a more relaxed environment but it will always be a stylish statement. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black on the contrary is big, it looks sporty and is ready to use as an instrument under water. But the thing that connects these watches is that they are part of true watch legacies that date back decades. So whichever one you choose, you are buying a watch with a genuine story behind it. You just have to find out what story suits you best…

Discover more watch pairs

Rolex GMT-Master II & Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 1931

IWC Portofino & TAG Heuer Carrera

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5327 & Vacheron Constantin Overseas Worldtime


About the Author

Jorg Weppelink

Hi, I'm Jorg, and I've been writing articles for Chrono24 since 2016. However, my relationship with Chrono24 goes back a bit longer, as my love for watches began …

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