Rolex Steel

Stainless steel watches from Rolex have been popular with watch enthusiasts for decades. Sports models such as the Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master, and Cosmograph Daytona are particularly sought-after and almost always sell for well above the original list price. However, experts and amateurs alike have always debated the pros and cons of the brand's special 904L stainless steel.

What steel does Rolex use for its stainless steel watches?

Rolex uses a special alloy called "Oystersteel" for its stainless steel watches. This variant of 904L stainless steel was developed by Rolex and has been produced for the manufacture since 1985. According to Rolex, 904L stainless steel offers several advantages over the conventional 316L stainless steel used by most other watch brands. For example, its high chromium and molybdenum content makes it more resistant to corrosion and external influences like salt water. This makes it particularly suitable for use in diving watches like the Rolex Submariner or Sea-Dweller.

With few exceptions, Rolex also offers virtually all of its models in stainless steel. The company's sporty timepieces are especially popular. One of the brand's most sought-after watches is the tricompax Cosmograph Daytona chronograph, which Rolex has been manufacturing in stainless steel since 1963. Current steel versions of the Daytona have a black ceramic bezel and are available with either a black or white dial.

If you prefer Rolex's legendary diving watch design, then the stainless steel Submariner is your best option. The brand with the crown has been offering this model since 1953, and the watch made history with its distinctive look. Stainless steel Submariner watches are available with a black dial. The Submariner Date features a date display, and the current collection includes a variant with a green bezel.

Another popular stainless steel model from Rolex is the GMT-Master or GMT-Master II. With its practical GMT function, the watch can display up to three time zones, depending on the model. This makes the watch, first presented in 1954, ideal for globetrotters who regularly spend time in different time zones. A special stainless steel version of the GMT-Master II, nicknamed the "Sprite," features a black and green bezel and a left-sided crown.

Fans of more complicated watches will get their money's worth with the Rolex Sky-Dweller. Stainless steel models are fitted with fluted, white gold bezels. Along with the GMT function, the timepiece also features an annual calendar. The Sky-Dweller is operated using Rolex's patented Ring Command bezel. This model is the most complex watch in the Rolex catalog and comes with a dial in black, white, brown, or blue-green.

One of the most affordable stainless steel timepieces in the current Rolex catalog is the Datejust 31 (ref. 278240). As of December 2023, this model changed hands on Chrono24 for roughly 9,600 USD. Plan to spend about 13,000 USD on a Rolex Submariner ref. 124060. The current GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO costs approximately 22,000 USD in mint condition, while the Rolex Sky-Dweller ref. 336934 will set you back about 22,300 USD. The Rolex Daytona ref. 126500LN demands an investment of around 39,000 USD.