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  • Breguet Tradition

    Breguet

    Tradition

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  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control

    Jaeger-LeCoultre

    Master Control

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  • Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar

    Glashütte Original

    PanoMaticLunar

    from ฿226,189
  • NOMOS Tangente

    NOMOS

    Tangente

    from ฿30,749
  • Seiko Grand Seiko

    Seiko

    Grand Seiko

    from ฿10,478
  • A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

    A. Lange & Söhne

    Lange 1

    from ฿552,827
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Patek Philippe Very good Yellow gold 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Attributed 1830s Hunting Case Enamel FlowerGirl...
฿142,765
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
30
US
Tudor Black Bay S&G M79733N-0003 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Tudor M79733N-0003 Black Bay S&G
฿91,496
Verified Dealer
19
HK
Hublot Classic Fusion 45, 42, 38, 33 mm 568.NX.1170.NX Unworn Titanium 38mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Bracelet 38 mm - Unworn
฿206,678
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
38
AU
Rolex Daytona 116595RBOW-0002 New Rose gold
TOP
Rolex Daytona RAINBOW [BRANDNEW 2020]
฿11,382,022
Verified Dealer
 
HK
Rolex Datejust 21874 Good 36mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Rolex Datejust Boy
฿89,000
Private Seller
TH
Cartier Santos (submodel) New Steel 35.1mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Cartier Santos
฿195,000
Verified Dealer
 
TH
Richard Mille RM 027 Rm27-01 Very good Carbon Automatic
TOP
Richard Mille RM 27-01 Rafa Nadal (Limited of 50) WIRE ONLY
฿25,957,242
Verified Dealer
15
US
Orient 46E001 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Orient Day Date Automatic Gold Dial Presidents Watch Very Rare
฿16,223
Private Seller
TH
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 278 85 3L New Steel Manual winding Thailand, Bangkok
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Special London...
฿3,244,655
Private Seller
TH
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3570.50.00 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding Thailand, Bangkok
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
฿101,171
Private Seller
TH
Richard Mille RM 011 RM011 Good Titanium 50mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Richard Mille RM 011
฿4,334,308
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Grand Seiko 9R65-OCJO Very good Titanium 40 m.m.mm Automatic Thailand, Hua Hin
Seiko GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE TITANIUM
฿107,494
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 6105-8110 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic Thailand, Wattana
Seiko 1973 Seiko Diver (Ref. 6105-8110) "Captain Willard"
฿72,638
Private Seller
TH
Eberhard & Co. Tazio Nuvolari EBERHARD TAZIO NUVOLARI 31055 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic
TOP
Eberhard & Co. TAZIO NUVOLARI RATTRAPPANTE
฿173,436
Verified Dealer
 
IT
Seiko 4S15-6010 Very good Steel 38mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko [Rare vintage Mint] SCVF007- Red Alpinist White Dial,...
฿48,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko King 4402-8000 Good Steel 36mm Manual winding Thailand, Muang District
Seiko [Beautiful Medallion] King Seiko 44KS: 4402-8000 Good...
฿25,000
Private Seller
TH
Omega 145.022 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding Thailand, Bangkok
Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing
฿235,000
Private Seller
TH
Orient FEV03002W Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Orient Automatic Day Date President's Watch Very Rare
฿18,332
Private Seller
TH
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26405CE.OO.A002CA.02 Very good Ceramic 44mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in FULL Black...
฿935,000
Private Seller
TH
Breitling for Bentley AB0118A11L1X1 Unworn Steel Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Breitling Premier Bentley Edition Racing Green
฿190,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Credor 4282 Good 38mm Automatic Thailand, Hua Hin
Seiko CREDOR 8L75-Phoenix GCBR995
฿61,245
Private Seller
TH
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe PT6388-SS001-330-1 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic Thailand, SRIRACHA
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe
฿52,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 SUAA81K Unworn Steel 25mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Seiko RARE SEIKO 5 AUTOMATIC LADIES DRESS WATCH SUAA81K
฿6,165
Private Seller
TH
Patek Philippe Very good Steel Automatic Thailand, 90110
Patek Philippe 3800/1a-011
฿1,460,095
Private Seller
TH
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M WAJ2112.BA0870 Good Steel 43mm Automatic Thailand
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M
฿43,500
Private Seller
TH
Orient 46E90191ACS Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Orient Day Date Automatic All- Gold Presidents Men's Watch,...
฿20,117
Private Seller
TH
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M CAY2110.BA0927 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic Thailand
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Automatic Chronograph
฿51,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Unworn Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Seiko Zimbe SRPE14K ( Zimbe 13 Limited Edition 999Pcs)
฿29,202
Private Seller
TH
Seiko SARB049 Unworn Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Seiko SARB049 (LAND MONSTER)
฿12,816
Private Seller
TH
SD89458GG01 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Sandoz Datejust Automatic Pink Gold, Swiss Rare
฿10,545
Private Seller
TH
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 114300 Unworn Steel 47mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 limited Edition
฿195,000
Private Seller
TH
IWC Portuguese Chronograph IW371601 Unworn Steel 41mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
IWC Portuguese Chronograph 150 Years Anniversary Edition
฿290,397
Private Seller
TH
Rado Ref. 11815 Good Steel 37.0mm Automatic Thailand, Chiang Mai
Rado MANHATTAN
฿12,816
Private Seller
TH
Panerai Special Editions PAM277 Good 44mm Manual winding Thailand, Bangkok
Panerai MONOPULSANTE 8 DAYS GMT LIMITED EDITION PAM 277
฿648,000
Private Seller
TH
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A-001 Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Patek Philippe Nautilus
฿2,320,000
Private Seller
TH
Girard Perregaux Very good Steel 40mm Manual winding
TOP
Girard Perregaux MINT 1970s 40mm Flyback Diver Racing...
฿324,433
Verified Dealer
9
US
Rado 22656745 Good Steel 37.0mm Automatic Thailand, Chiang Mai
Rado Purple Horse 30 Jewels
฿12,167
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Prospex SPB055J Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Thailand, Talingchan
Seiko Prospex Zimbe no.4 SPB055J Zumo Purple NEW
฿45,425
Private Seller
TH
Mido Multifort M005.431.11.441.00 Good Steel 42mm Automatic Thailand, Muang Nonthaburi
Mido Multifort
฿16,800
Private Seller
TH
Omega Seamaster 166.027 Good Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Omega Seamaster
฿71,904
Private Seller
TH
Omega Constellation 168.0056 Good Steel 34.8mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Omega Constellation
฿44,000
Private Seller
TH
Longines Master Collection L25185777 Very good 36mm Automatic Thailand, bangkok
Longines L25185777
฿45,000
Private Seller
TH
IWC Big Pilot IW500916 Fair Steel 46mm Automatic Thailand, Pattaya City
IWC Big Pilot
฿265,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 6R15-00D0 Fair Titanium 44mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Seiko SBDC009 Shogun Titanium with Orange Dial [Rare]
฿59,000
Private Seller
TH
Cartier Tank Anglaise W5310008 Good Steel 47mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Cartier Tank Anglaise XL - in-house movement, no longer in...
฿123,297
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 SNK579K1 Unworn Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Seiko 5 SNK579 Automatic Men's Watch, Japan
฿5,191
Private Seller
TH
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-014 Very good White gold 38.5mm Automatic Thailand, BANGKOK
TOP
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar
฿1,135,629
Private Seller
TH
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Patek Philippe Nautilus
฿2,100,000
Private Seller
TH
Breitling 765 Good Steel 39mm Manual winding Thailand, bangkok
Breitling geneve military pilot
฿56,781
Private Seller
TH
Unworn 43mm Automatic Thailand, Suratthani
Parnis Power Reserve Automatic
฿3,894
Private Seller
 
TH
Unworn 44mm Automatic Thailand, Suratthani
Parnis 200 m Diver Automatic
฿3,894
Private Seller
 
TH
Glycine Combat 3945.004 Unworn Steel 43mm Automatic Thailand, Rawai
Glycine Combat Chrono 3945.15AT
฿42,181
Private Seller
TH
Bulgari Diagono SD40S RE Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Bulgari Diagono Pro Aqua Regatta Chronograph 40mm B&P
฿140,917
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
414
PL
Tudor Black Bay Bronze 79250BB Unworn Bronze 43mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
TOP
Tudor Black Bay Bronze
฿142,000
Private Seller
TH
Omega Speedmaster 3559.32.00 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Omega Speedmaster
฿189,000
Verified Dealer
 
TH
Patek Philippe Very good White gold 21mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe 3368/2
฿199,836
Verified Dealer
29
SE
Rolex Day-Date 36 1803 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day-Date
฿240,447
Verified Dealer
216
UK
Rolex Datejust 16030 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 16030 Stella Boiler Gauge Dial
฿343,259
Verified Dealer
120
IT
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 311.30.42.30.01.005 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch fullset 2018 - only export (NON-EU)
฿130,077
Verified Dealer
278
DE
Zenith 49.2520.400/98.R578 Very good Ceramic 45mm Automatic
TOP
Zenith El Primero 36'000 VpH Chronograph 49.2520.400/98.R578
฿209,280
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
962
US
Rolex Daytona 116520 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520
฿704,583
Verified Dealer
495
NL
Frederique Constant Ladies Automatic Double Heart Beat FC-303LGD3BD2B New Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Ladies Automatic Double Heart Beat...
฿71,904
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
24
FR
Rolex Daytona 116520 Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona 116520 in New Old Stock Condition with Box & Papers
฿876,057
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
45
US
Rolex Lady-Datejust 178344 Very good Steel 31mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Rolex Lady-Datejust
฿265,000
Verified Dealer
 
TH

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.