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Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti 341.PV.2010.LR.1905 Very good Rose gold 41mm
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti 341.pv.2010.lr.1905 Rose Gold
฿647,084
Professional dealer
US
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite SLTGC.2 Unworn Rose gold 44mm Automatic
TOP
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold 3D Movement Limited Edition
฿869,646
Professional dealer
 
PT
Romain Jerome Titanic-DNA RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 New Steel 50mm Automatic
TOP
Romain Jerome - Steampunk Chrono Black - Ref.: RJ.T.CH.SP.002....
฿301,739
Professional dealer
 
RU
Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-010 Very good White gold 34mm
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava New York 2017 Edition 7200/50g-010...
฿1,126,524
Professional dealer
318
US
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 191.039 Very good White gold 38.5mm Manual winding Thailand, Bangkok
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 Ref. 191.039 White Gold, new Cal. L...
฿896,150
Private Seller
 
TH
Franck Muller Casablanca 7880 Very good Rose gold 47mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Casablanca Chronographe 7880 18k pink gold
฿632,122
Professional dealer
16
MC
Orient 7X3057 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Orient Day Date Automatic White dial President's (FEV03002WY),...
฿16,323
Private Seller
TH
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 311.33.40.30.02.001 New Steel 39.7mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch - 311.33.40.30.02.001...
฿306,445
Professional dealer
525
DE
Seiko Marinemaster SLA023J1 Very good Steel Automatic Thailand, Pattaya
Seiko Marinemaster 300
฿65,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Monster SRP309K1 Good Steel Thailand, Samutprakarn
Seiko Fang Monster Classic srp309j
฿16,700
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 SNXZ16K Unworn Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Seiko 5 SNXZ16 Automatic Men's, Japan, Ultra RARE
฿15,363
Private Seller
TH
Rolex Milgauss 116400 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Milgauss - Rainbow MK2 - Limited Edition /5 Black Venom...
฿587,950
Professional dealer
98
IT
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 25860ST.OO.1110ST.04 Very good Steel 39mm Chronograph
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
฿1,136,190
Professional dealer
13
US
Orient Unworn 36mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Orient President Day​Date FEV03002BY
฿19,155
Private Seller
TH
Omega Seamaster 1114207 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic Thailand, Yala
Omega SEAMASTER CALENDAR
฿25,500
Private Seller
TH
TAG Heuer 6000 3606 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic Thailand, Hatyai
TAG Heuer 6000 GOLD
฿379,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Marinemaster Sla013j1 Very good Titanium 44mm Automatic Thailand, phuket
Seiko Marinemaster zimbe 2 sla013j1
฿360,000
Private Seller
TH
Orient 46E41 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Orient Oyster Day Date Automatic Champagne Dial Presidents...
฿15,683
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Prospex Zimbe15 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko Prospex Zimbe 15 (Sumo) Limited Edition. New&Unused Only...
฿40,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 SNXJ89 K Unworn Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Seiko SNXJ89K Datejust
฿12,642
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Prospex SPB185J1 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic Thailand, Pattaya
Seiko Prospex SPB185J1
฿27,205
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 192103 Unworn Steel 38mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Seiko 5 SNKK41 Seikonaut Nautilus Automatic Mens Watch VERY RARE
฿24,324
Private Seller
TH
Bulova 1D29B Unworn Steel 34mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Bulova Automatic All Gold 25 Jewels (D29B), Swiss, VERY RARE
฿19,843
Private Seller
TH
NOMOS Lambda 960.S1 New Steel Manual winding
TOP
NOMOS LAMBDA – 175 YEARS WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE - Limited 175...
฿287,290
Professional dealer
525
DE
Seiko Prospex SPB125J1 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Thailand, Pattaya
Seiko Prospex
฿15,000
Private Seller
TH
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch New Steel 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Speedmaster - Moonwatch From the moon to mars Limited...
฿390,651
Professional dealer
98
IT
Cartier Santos Dumont 2649 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Manual winding
TOP
Cartier Santos Dumont Yellow Gold Large W2008751
฿323,723
Professional dealer
1192
NL
GUB Glashütte 007744 Good Steel 34mm Manual winding Thailand, Hatyai
GUB Glashütte GUB Glashutte
฿13,900
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 Snxj89k1 Unworn 35mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Seiko Snxj89k white dial date just
฿12,000
Private Seller
TH
Franck Muller Vanguard V45SCDT Very good Titanium 44mm Automatic Thailand, Banglamung
Franck Muller Vanguard
฿149,881
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5606-7010 Good Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko Lordmatic Silver linen dial 5606-7010. Good time accuracy.
฿12,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko SCVF005 Very good Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko Diving Watches RED ALPINIST 4S15 (SCVF005) Black Dial....
฿50,000
Private Seller
TH
IWC Pilot Chronograph IW377726 New Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
IWC Racing Green Chronograph Edition Watch Pilot - LIMITED...
฿314,107
Professional dealer
525
DE
Seiko Prospex SNR049J1 New Titanium 45mm Automatic
TOP
Seiko Prospex Spring Drive GMT Diver's limited Edition
฿191,552
Professional dealer
472
DE
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi 00.10632.24.33.01 Very good Gold/Steel 44.6mm Automatic Thailand, Tha Sala
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Scubatec
฿127,989
Private Seller
TH
TAG Heuer 6000 49713427 Good 36mm Automatic Thailand, Hatyai
TAG Heuer 6000 series WH5253 K1 18K Yellow Gold & Steel Watch.
฿43,700
Private Seller
TH
Heuer 1163 Good Steel 42mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Heuer Autavia "Pre-Viceroy"
฿140,824
Private Seller
TH
Orient FEV03000GY Unworn Silver 36mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Orient Automat Day Date White Dial 2 tone (FEV03000GY) ...
฿16,643
Private Seller
TH
Damasko DS 30 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic Thailand, Hua Hin
Damasko DS30 OCGN
฿34,288
Private Seller
TH
Seiko King KS15S-514-E Very good Steel 35mm Manual winding Thailand, Muang District
Seiko King [Rare] The 1st King Seiko SD
฿31,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 224955 Unworn Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Seiko 5 automatic Datejust (SNXJ90K1) Men's Watch, Japan, RARE
฿13,602
Private Seller
TH
GUB Glashütte 215004 Good Steel 36mm Manual winding Thailand, Hatyai
GUB Glashütte GUB Glashutte 17 Jewels
฿9,900
Private Seller
TH
Omega Seamaster 166.026 Good Steel 35mm Automatic Thailand, Phuket
Omega Seamaster
฿29,785
Private Seller
TH
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 3848 Very good Yellow gold 27mm Manual winding Thailand, Suanluang
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
฿261,740
Private Seller
TH
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 5513 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic Thailand, bangkok
Rolex Submariner Maxi Mk2
฿601,700
Private Seller
TH
Bremont V4/RR Very good Steel 43mm Automatic Thailand, Banglamung
Bremont Norton
฿191,872
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 15017 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko Sportmatic 15017 NOS. Very beautiful condition and good...
฿15,000
Private Seller
TH
Rolex Submariner Date 116610 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner - Pink Panther - Limited Edition /5 Black...
฿824,708
Professional dealer
98
IT
Poljot 43210 Good Gold/Steel 39mm Manual winding Thailand, Yala
Poljot Chronograph
฿22,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 Sports 6138-0011 Good Steel 44mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko 5 Sports [RARE] Early JDM Version w/ original strap,...
฿23,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5606-7200 Very good Tungsten 38mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko Lordmatic 5606-7200 [RARE] Complete set all original...
฿25,000
Private Seller
TH
Panerai PAM:240 / OP 6669 / BB 1256380 Good Titanium 44mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Panerai Luminor Marina - Titanium
฿143,521
Private Seller
TH
Seiko King 5256-8010 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic Thailand, Muang District
Seiko King 5256-8010 Special [RARE] The last King Seiko of...
฿35,000
Private Seller
TH
Seiko Prospex SPB055J Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Thailand, Talingchan
Seiko Prospex Zimbe no.4 SPB055J Zumo Purple NEW
฿44,807
Private Seller
TH
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300-0003 Unworn Steel 41mm Automatic Thailand, Pattaya
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
฿287,328
Private Seller
TH
Tudor Prince Date 79410P Good Steel 46mm Automatic Thailand, Chatuchak
Tudor Prince Date Good Condition Tudor Prince Stainless Steel...
฿43,155
Private Seller
TH
Sinn U1 1010.040 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakarn
Sinn U1
฿58,000
Private Seller
TH
Hamilton Khaki X-Wind H77616533 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic Thailand, 96815
Hamilton Khaki X-Wind
฿22,368
Private Seller
TH
Breitling Chronomat Colt A17313101F1A1 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic Thailand, Bangkok
Breitling Chronomat Colt
฿70,500
Private Seller
TH
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 114060 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner - Roulette - Limited Edition /10 Black Venom...
฿651,085
Professional dealer
98
IT
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 15200 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic Thailand, Chonburi
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Box +...
฿124,821
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 5 200163 Unworn Steel 37mm Automatic Thailand, Samutprakan
Seiko 5 automatic Datejust (SNXJ92K1) Men's Watch, Japan, RARE
฿13,442
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 033844 Good Steel 39mm Automatic Thailand, Chiang Mai
Seiko Presmatic HI-BEAT 30 Jewels
฿12,200
Private Seller
TH
Seiko 12049 Good Steel 30mm Manual winding Thailand, Chatuchack
Seiko SUPER "S MARK" ULTRA RARE DIAL SEIKO
฿6,000
Private Seller
TH

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.